To cover the 400km distance Cusco-Puno we boarded an overnight bus that arrived at lake Titicaca at 4am in the night. It was freezing cold. The Puno bus terminal was an uncomfortable chilly place in the middle of nowhere and our tour guide didn't show up there until 6:30am! But eventually she did. She took us to a local market to get some welcome gifts for our guest family on Amantani island the following night. The shops were just opening up.
Equipped with fresh bread and cheese we were finally heading out onto the lake. We didn't had to drive long to encounter the first attraction: the floating islands of the Uro tribe. In our opinion one of the best examples on how mass tourism not only changes the environment but also culture: Nowadays the Uros rely soley on tourism and adapt their customs to please visitors. For instance, their floating islands are not traditionally drifting on lake Titicaca anymore, but instead they would stay within viewing distance from the main land. Although reet huts and people were nice, it didn't feel authentic. We couln't help feeling a bit off-track.
Equipped with fresh bread and cheese we were finally heading out onto the lake. We didn't had to drive long to encounter the first attraction: the floating islands of the Uro tribe. In our opinion one of the best examples on how mass tourism not only changes the environment but also culture: Nowadays the Uros rely soley on tourism and adapt their customs to please visitors. For instance, their floating islands are not traditionally drifting on lake Titicaca anymore, but instead they would stay within viewing distance from the main land. Although reet huts and people were nice, it didn't feel authentic. We couln't help feeling a bit off-track.
Further on the lake you will find real (non-floating) islands. We visited Amantani. Upon arrival our tour group was split into small units of 2-4 persons and each group was assigned to a local family. That way we were able to get a glimpse of their everyday life. The Amantani people are very hearty and welcoming. They do have a rough life though. We saw power cables running all over the island. But ironically they have no access to electricity, let alone running water! The government had promised them power and light, but campaign pledges were soon forgotten and today remote Amantani is still waiting for things to improve... With or without power, the island is beautiful. After nightfall the sky turns so dark that you can almost touch the milkyway with your hands. Simply spectecular! After having dinner with our lovely host family the islanders gave a fiesta in the "city hall". Music was live, everyone danced frolicly and the whole place was lit by a single light bulb, attached to a car battery!
Update 2013: Still no water or electricity on Amantani.
Update 2013: Still no water or electricity on Amantani.
Back on the main land we explored the freshly restaurated "Yavari", a British ship from colonial times. After colonial Peru ran out of coal, the ship's motor was provisionally fueled with lama dung, before they were even running out of that and the ship started to rust in the Puno harbour. Thanks to a group of navigation enthousiasts the Yavari is glooming in new splendor again. Check out the sign "Why is a ship called she"!
As we headed back to Cusco we took a bus to view the attractions along the way. First we stopped at the "chulpas", ancient stone graves of the Inca empire. Further down the road there was a traditional Peruvian farmhouse. The owner tried to sell us guinea pigs! No, not as a pet, but as food! A deepfried "cuy" (guinea pig) with his front teeth sticking out of the plate, is a real sight! From that day on we prefered chicken.
